Courrèges presents a wardrobe for the liberated man SS22


When things start out well, it’s always worth building on the momentum, right? Watching the Courrèges SS22 presentation yesterday, this is apparently the maxim that Nicolas di Felice has chosen to live by while preparing his second outing for the Parisian multi-storey house. “This is the continuation of the first show I did in March, I really wanted to work with the same identity I had then”, says the Belgian designer, a fact that you quickly see when you see the skirt. shopping centers in the same cavernous white. cube in which presented its confident debut.

As for the clothes themselves, this was indeed a collection that built on what we saw in March, filled with clean, abbreviated silhouettes, workwear shapes, and cutouts. vinyl. Here, however, it was not just a series of addendums to a pre-established theme – there was a lot of novelty, too.

Where this was most evident was in the presentation of the house’s first full-fledged men’s clothing offering in 35 years. Utility and comfort were the order of the day – the collection’s opening look, for example, was a knee-length raincoat in chocolate eco-nylon topped with ribbed-knit pants; it’s closer, a jumpsuit with straps in nude effect ecru rib. Archival plaid car coats were slanted at the shoulder, and workwear archetypes were Courrèges – the pockets of vinyl and denim trucker jackets were satisfactorily rounded, for example, while those of a shimmering black crepe with five pockets have become neat, zipped. up the slots.

The attention to detail exhibited here speaks directly to Nicolas’ passion for the category, which he equates to his love for the founding of Courrèges. job, haute couture. “I love one as much as the other, really! He proclaims, praising the intrinsic sense of precision in work clothes. “They make the same pieces over and over again, and it’s always the right finish for the right fabric for the right fit – perfect! I guess that’s what sewing has in common, they’re both perfect in their own way.

Of course, the sensitivity of Nicolas’ couturier, well sharpened during his stint at positions of responsibility at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière, and a stint at Dior, Raf Simons, was also felt here. On the men’s and women’s side, masterful cutting skills resulted in delicate, square, collared, short jackets with fitted sleeves, and the back of a wide-necked white coat with vertical welt pockets was fashioned to from a single seamless drape.

A model in full look of Courrèges SS22

When you think of Courrèges, it’s clothes like these, seductive in their elegant simplicity, that come to mind most often. As important as it is to respect the archives, it is just as crucial to get things done. Where Nicolas did this brilliantly was in the looks that leaned towards the liberated spirit – libertine, even – which has invaded men’s fashion this season; riffs on the instant classics of the party-girls he presented in March. Vinyl pants with geometric cutouts punctuating the side seams, an A-line leather trench coat infused with just the right amount of sleaze, and a snap-on belly cutout vest – your new Hot summer uniform Boy, basically.

Of course, pieces like these won’t tickle every customer’s pickle, but the overall impression left here is the scope of Nicolas’ vision for Courrèges. Looking for slightly bootcut jeans? Check! A zip-up track jacket with a polo collar? Check! A knitted PVC tank top? “I don’t really think of a man when I create, I’m really more focused on how it’s going to be worn,” says Nicolas, basing his approach on the words of the founding father of the house. “André Courrèges said: ‘I try to create clothes that will make you look like a free man.’ I think that’s what I’ve tried to do here, create looks that really express the freedom of today. Here, that’s exactly what he managed to do.

A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
courreges_ss22_precollection-look-10.jpg
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22
A model in full look of Courrèges SS22


Comments are closed.